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| Ballenita, Ecuador |
Last July when I booked my trip to Ecuador I had originally planned to include a visit to the mountain cities of Cuenca and Quito. It turned out that for health reasons I was unable to reach the high altitudes of the Andes, but it didn't matter - the coastal towns, rich in history and beauty, rendered me awe-struck and inspired.
I explored the Ruta del Sol, found two new fair trade suppliers, visited an orphanage, became immersed in Spanish and learned Incan lore. Many people know Ecuador only for the Andes and Amazon. As a result the coast has received relatively little tourism, but I have a feeling this won't last long. Read on and you'll see why.
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| Venturing out onto the Ruta del Sol along the coast of Ecuador |
The Ruta del Sol passes through Ecuador’s Southern Coast, a region rich in culture whose Valdivia people date back almost 11,000 years. The Valdivia natives were some of the most advanced of their time, crafting utensils and ornaments out of clay as early as 4000 B.C. The Valdivia people were also significant for their maritime skills, sailing along the Pacific shoreline as far South as Chile and as far north as Mexico.
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| Ancient Valdivian ceramic icon (Goddess) |
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| Ancient Valdivian ceramic sculpture |
The present-day Ruta is speckled with industry: fisheries, sea salt producers and oil refineries.
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| Fishing boats in Ayangue, Ecuador |
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| Shrimping boat in Ayangue, Ecuador |
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| Fresh fish at Puerto Lopez, Ecuador |
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| Sea salt production in Salinas, Ecuador |
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| Oil tankers along the coast of Ecuador |
Half way up the coast lies the popular surfing village of Montanita, with miles of undeveloped beachfront on either side.
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| Hostel at Montanita, Ecuador |
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| Hammocks for sale at Montanita, Ecuador |
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| Undeveloped beachfront along the Ruta del Sol, Ecuador |
The town of Olon boasts a breathtaking view from a large church on a cliff, and is the site of many schools - including the orphanage that I was to visit later in the trip.
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| View from the church at Olon, Ecuador |
On the way back to my lodging in Salinas, I kept an eye out for Tagua artisans along the coast. I had heard there were fair trade organizations set up slightly inland. Just south of Montanita a bumpy dirt road leads to Sitio Pueblo Nuevo - a small farming village whose residents have a newly founded dedication to Tagua craft. They have established a certified fair trade operation, and through my translator Emilio and head crafstman Holger, I managed to secure an initial order of natural tagua (white and heated tan) and cow horn. The cow horn is a new endeavor to ensure when the cows are slaughtered that all of the parts are used. I assure you no cows were killed just to fill my order! I look forward to creating bold new designs from my natural palette of horn and Tagua beads.
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| Entrance to Siteo Pueblo Nuevo (tagua village), Ecuador |
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| Road to Siteo Pueblo Nuevo (tagua village), Ecuador |
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| Siteo Pueblo Nuevo (tagua village), Ecuador |
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| Lara Bazant and Holger Apolinario at Siteo Pueblo Nuevo (tagua village), Ecuador |
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| Lara Bazant orders natural cow horn and tagua via fair trade in Ecuador |
Since Salinas was my home base, I spent a fair bit of time enjoying the beach, but also thought it would be a good idea to explore the town a little. Salinas is considered the Miami of Ecuador. Wealthy residents of Guayaquil make the two hour drive to the beach each weekend, as many of them own condos on the coast.
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| The Malecon in Salinas, Ecuador |
A friendly tour guide named Luis took me inside the naval base to visit the Chocolatera - the Western most point in South America. Chocolatera is named after the chocolate colored whirlpools that twist and turn amongst the huge hypnotizing waves that crash into the rocks. On one of these rocks lies a group of 31 stranded male sea lions - uprooted during the 1997 El Nino current. Sadly, they will no longer be there in 12 years, as they have no females to mate with.
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| Naval base at Salinas, Ecuador |
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| Lighthouse at Chocolatera , Ecuador |
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| Chocolatera, Ecuador |
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| Stranded sea lions at Chocolatera, Ecuador |
During my stay in Salinas I was on a mission to acquire Spondylus to create a new jewelry collection. The Spondylus shell (“Mullu” in the native Quechua) was a huge part of the Valdivia’s religion and economy. This spiky shell was revered as sacred. It was a ritual symbol of fertility and prosperity, as well as an icon of guidance for the Incas. The Spondylus shell was also a ceremonial offering and became the primary cross-cultural currency. People traveled hundreds of miles by sea in their balsawood boats and traded the Spondylus shell with cultures in Central America and Pacific Mexico. By all means, the Spondylus shell is the emblematic artifact of Ecuador’s advanced indigenous culture. It is available in three colors: purple (symbolizes the Inca spirit), red (symbolizes wealth), and orange (symbolizes nourishment).
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| Ecuadorian spondylus shells |
Luis took me to a shop of local artisans who specialize in carving and polishing spondylus. They were delighted to do business, and after providing them with two of my ideas they produced prototypes and I placed an initial order. I predict my spondylus collection will be a big hit this year!
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| Spondylus cutting machine |
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| Carved and polished spondylus |
Near the end of my stay I spoke to Kimberly and Hector Quintana of Island Estates to see if I could arrange a driver and translator to the Orphanage at Olon. A couple of weeks earlier I had attended a fundraiser dinner hosted by American expatriates Tod and Mary Freeman. Their goal was to raise $1500 so that one of the orphans at Olon could receive life-saving brain surgery. At the dinner there were quite a few Americans who spoke highly of the work that was being done at the orphanage. Given my keen interest in international development, I wanted to check it out in person. The Quintanas pointed me in the direction of their outspoken and open minded driver Eduardo, who provided excellent translation.
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| Exterior of girls dormitory at Olon Orphanage, Ecuador |
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| Door of dormitory at Olon orphanage, Ecuador |
The orphanage at Olon is run by three nuns: sisters Veronica, Isabella and Fatima. I was warmly greeted by Isabella, and shown the majority of the grounds by Fatima. Fatima is the "mama" for the boys dormitory, but she keeps a close eye on all and provides endless amounts of love. You can see it in her eyes.
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| Lara Bazant meets Fatima, the "mother" of the boys dormitory at Olon Orphanage |
The facilities are currently at capacity with 50 children. Most of the kids are without parents, and a few have been sent there by parents who are unable to provide for them. Fatima led me through the separate dormitories for young girls (babies to age 12), boys of all ages, and teen girls. I also visited the attached school from the outside. Everywhere I went I was greeted with love and honor. One of the girls named Henneses touched my face and kissed me gently on the cheek - a sign of respect. Fatima explained to me how the children arrive at the orphanage traumatized, but over time they learn to love.
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| Orphan girls at Olon, Ecuador |
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| Interior of girls' dormitory at Olon Orphanage |
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| Lara Bazant meets teen girl orphans at Olon, Ecuador |
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| Hallway of boys dormitory at Olon Orphanage, Ecuador |
Sister Isabella (who is in charge of the finances) said they rely mostly on funding from private donors, as the government is inconsistent. It costs $4 per day per child for food alone. That's $6000 a month. Isabella said that she often asks stores for credit so that she can give the children what they need when they need it. The expatriate community in Salinas has begun to help the orphanage in great ways, but they still need adequate consistent funding on a regular basis.
One of the things that moved me the most about the trip to the orphanage was the reaction of my driver Eduardo. He told me that Ecuadorians don't normally visit places like this and although he knew how to get to the orphanage, he had never actually been there before. His eyes were opened. He said "I have so little, yet I am a rich man."
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| Eduardo and Isabella |
The story of my journey through the Ecuadorian coast concludes with a few memorable moments: Frigate birds gliding like kites and pelicans dive bombing for fish. Wild flamingos lounging and parrots flocking. Mosaics on the boardwalk. Fruits and natural fruit juices: pineapple, blackberry, lime. Ceviche, shrimp rice, and fried plantain. Sunny days: sounds of the ocean and wind at the windows, wild roses. Noisy nights: car horns beeping and alarms sounding, dogs barking over territory on the beech and one relentless rooster. Third world juxtaposition of wealthy and poor. Warm smiles and "buenas". People helping people. A culture of family first.
