Uganda 2009: Being the Change

Lara Bazant and orphans in Lira Uganda

To facilitate the reading of my July 2009 volunteer Uganda trip with Kirabo Canada in chronological order, I am posting my journal entries in one long blog post. Read it from beginning to end, and you will hopefully enjoy the journey as much as I did.

July 4
En route from Brussels to Entebbe. Looking out my tiny window of safety I see a vast and daunting Sahara desert. An endless sprawl of sand drifting into the horizon. I wonder how survival there is even possible.

July 5
At the Red Chilli Hideaway – first morning in Uganda. We arrived in the pitch black of night – no street lights. Multitude of flies buzzing around our faces at the airport. Drove through Entebbe to Kampala – dilapidated shacks along the street – poverty interspersed with screamingly large advertisements. Arrived at the hostel around 1:00 am and slept restlessly in our dorm of creaky bunks with mosquito nets. Unfamiliar sounds through the night. Happy to shower this morning – the setup is similar to camping but I’m fine with it. Already noticing how friendly the locals are. They really respond to smiles and “how are you”.

Lara Bazant arrives in Kampala Uganda with Kirabo Canada

Kampala Uganda

July 6
Had a hard time sleeping last night and as a result was pretty delirious today. Wonderful start though. Calvin’s friend Moses accompanied us through Kampala to change our money and take a look at a local market. In the evening we went to Ndere theater to watch traditional drumming and dance – what a treat! The big smiles, the tribal dancing, the feeling of camaraderie. It warmed my heart and made me realize how closed off I have become simply from living the busy city life.

Ndere theater in Kampala Uganda

July 7 - morning
The true work begins today. Yesterday after a long and sweaty drive up North we settled into Will’s Guest House in Lira and met the students of Almond College for the first time. It was unforgettably moving. They were so happy to see us. They sang and cheered as we arrived, then did a ceremony with traditional Acholi dance and a dramatic play as a welcome. A sense of responsibility settled into our hearts – I could see it in everyone’s face. We are ready to do something that will change us forever.

The drive up, though hot and bumpy, was scenic. Villages of mud huts, women carrying bundles on their heads, and of course the memorable stopping in a small town to use the “bathroom” which was a hole in the ground. We saw a baboon with a little baby hanging on and we passed over the Nile with aggressively rolling rapids. We were told not to photograph it, as military forbids photos of that particular bridge. Today we begin our volunteer work. Today we begin to change.

Lira, Uganda

Students perform welcoming ceremony at the Almond School in Lira Uganda

July 7 - evening
I feel like this has been the best day of my life. I know there have been other wonderful moments for which I am very grateful, but today was something else….and we have two more weeks of it to come! In the morning we walked to the school through a serene local village and after a quick tour of the Almond School Facilities, began with light construction work. We worked as an assembly line to get the pile of bricks from outside the room to be stacked on the inside. Lunch reminded me of trekking in the Karakorams – noodle soup, tuna, peanuts and corn (well actually they were the Ugandan form of peanuts, known as “G-Nuts” or ground nuts). Simple, yet nutrifying. Tracy (the corporate trainer who created the curriculum for the leadership course) kindly went over our lessons and after lunch we walked back to the school to begin our first day of facilitating leadership training for the senior three and senior four students (similar to our grade 11 and 12. They are on the British education system and are considered to be in O levels). Today’s lesson was about leadership qualities. We taught them how to play rock paper scissors and incorporated it into an evolutionary game, as well as playing a warp-speed name game and encouraging our groups to come up with ideas as to what makes a good leader. After debriefing the session was finished and after school activities began. I spoke to Helen (the Matron of the school who looks after the needs of the girls dormitory) and Headmaster Benedict Odongo about teaching a workshop for the girls to learn how to make reusable cloth sanitary pads, and they were VERY excited about it. We’ll be using the lab and starting tomorrow. Afterwards I went outside and learned Acholi dancing from two of the students: Sammy and Francesca. So much fun!! These kids are amazing.

Local children - Lira, Uganda

The Almond School, Lira Uganda

Activities at the Almond School

July 8
As I wash up before dinner, I can see the sun setting outside….and it is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. It reminds me that the day of work is done and we have in some way – even in the littlest way – made a difference. Some of the students are very shy, so when I smile at them and they smile back, I know it has made them happy. Someone noticed them. Someone cared. Today started out with heavier construction work and I struggled with it a bit. Not the actual brick laying, but the heat. I ran out of water early on and the dehydration caused me to become unfocused and emotional. It was a struggle to keep calm, but I did it. Got pretty dirty with that red African mud too. In the afternoon the leadership activities went more in depth as well – this time focusing on leadership styles: autocratic, democratic and laissez-faire. We had the kids split into groups of three to build a straw tower. Each team had a leader who was instructed to use one of the three styles. Afterwards we debriefed. In our group the kids were pretty content with their autocratic leader. The democratic group had by far the best straw tower, and the laissez-faire group resented their leader for not participating.

After the lessons, my true work began. I started to teach six girls how to make their own pads. We started with learning the back stitch. Once they were comfortable with the sewing we began to cut fabric with the cardboard templates that I brought with me. I think the girls were actually enjoying it! They learned sewing fast and were quite proud of themselves. As we were finishing up, a male teacher walked in and told us we are doing a great thing and it will bring much progress to women in Africa! This is very very good. Truly making a difference.

So when I watched the peachy pink sun set over the horizon today I thought “you did it Lara – and this is only just the beginning.” I feel happy to be alive. Happy to be able to use my skills and knowledge for a noble purpose.

Lara Bazant helps construction of a new school room in Lira Uganda

Lara Bazant teaches female teens to make reusable sanitary pads in Lira Uganda

Sunset. Lira, Uganda

July 9
Rough waking up…but once we got going on the construction I was fine. It’s hard work though. Not sure if I’ll ever get used to brick laying. Leadership today was the zoom game (kids try to put themselves in chronological order of a story without showing what picture they are holding. It is an exercise in communication skills), then afterwards back to the pads workshop. I am so proud of the girls and their sewing skills! On my way out Headmaster Benedict told me that Bishop Tom (in charge of all the surrounding schools which are sponsored by All Nations Christian Care) is interested in getting the girls at the nearby technical school to learn as well. Word is spreading. He wants the Almond School girls to teach the other girls. This could really be a big step for them!

Lara Bazant teaches female teens to make reusable sanitary pads in Lira Uganda

July 10
I’m exhausted, yet elated. I’m starting to get to know the kids better – especially the girls in my workshop: the two Susans, Francesca, Nancy, Holger and Juliet. I like Juliet a lot and can see similar talents in her to myself, but she is too shy to talk to me openly. They all began chatting with each other while we were sewing today – particularly about the pregnancy tests they are required to take each term and how a girl is ostracized if she has a “bastard child”. They couldn’t believe I am 32 years old and NOT MARRIED! In their culture if a woman gets to be around 28 years old and is still not married, they think there is something wrong.

While I was watching the after school soccer game that Calvin set up between volunteers and students, a girl named Evelyn spoke to me about how they eat the same thing every day. Breakfast is posho (porridge made with maize), lunch is beans and posho, and supper…you guessed it: beans and posho. She also told me that she doesn’t currently live at the school like most of the students – she walks there from home because she is ill and receiving shots….something about her chest hurting and heart beating fast. I couldn’t quite decipher what the illness was.

Kitchen at Almond School

Boys dormitory at Almond school

It’s sometimes difficult for me to comprehend the level of poverty in which these students live, considering how intelligent, welcoming and respectful they all are. The way they speak to us you would think they were high level executives - but no, they live with next to nothing and complete their studies in half destroyed cement blocks with a chalkboard. They line up for food with their one dish like inmates. Their bright eyes are shining – they deserve so much better than this. It seems so unfair.

Tonight a reporter named Emmanuel joined us at dinner and we had our first conversation about the war and LRA. He said that for a long time the Acholi people would rather live in displacement camps than return to their villages because Joseph Kony is Acholi and they fear his return. He is in the Congo now, but they don’t believe the peace in Uganda will last. They have seen their family members killed in horrible ways and had all their possessions taken away. It was not just fear that kept them away…. It was the knowledge that everything they once had was gone.

Emmanuel also said that here in Uganda the government does not serve the people. “Once a person is in power he only looks out for his family and friends.” Acholi people are ostracized throughout the rest of Uganda – they can’t get jobs in the south or in the city. Their names are recognized.

Lara Bazant volunteers with orphaned teens at Almond School in Lira Uganda

July 11
Saturday is a half day of school at Almond. When we arrived the students were busy doing laundry and chores. Leadership training took place in the morning and for the first time I facilitated a group on my own. Today was about observation and group dynamics. In our small groups ten people read the provided story of Adroa (a troublesome boy who came from a broken home and was turning to mischief and petty theft) and tried to come up with a solution for him, while the remaining six students observed the problem solvers interact and took notes on the group dynamics. They observations were VERY thorough and the problem solvers were kind in their solution. They concluded that Adroa needed to leave his peers of bad influence and seek counseling and support from his family. It was nice to see them all get so involved. After lunch we rode Boda Boda (bicycle taxis) into town and braved the scorching sun for a tiny bit of time on the very slow internet. I got a bit burned, but really enjoyed the bike ride. We were a procession of “munus” (their affectionate Luo name for us – loosely translated as white person or foreigner.) With all of us on the bikes like that, it was like a munu parade! The villagers found it pretty hilarious.

Laundry day at Almond School

Lara Bazant rides boda boda in Lira Uganda

July 12
Today we visited the Rachele Rehabilitation Center for former child soldiers. Headmaster Tom took time to speak to us of the atrocities the kids had been through, then once we met some of them in person and saw them singing and smiling, it was hard not to cry. To see them smile, even after facing the worst terror – certainly puts aspects of my own life into perspective. We were told that once abducted, children are guarded heavily so as not to escape. If they try to escape, the punishment is brutal death and meant to instill fear in the others. One particular boy saw his two friends who attempted to escape being hung upside down by their feet, then burned alive. The girls who are abducted are kept in the bush and then either handed out as wives to the rebels or forced into combat with the boys. Many of the girls who came to the rehabilitation centre would be carrying two kids that they birthed in the bush, and pregnant with another. The people believe Joseph Kony to have magical powers, as he is apparently capable of predicting things before they happen. That is how is able to keep such loyal followers.

While lunching at the Lira Hotel with Headmaster Benedict from Almond School, he told us a story about the LRA coming to Lira. He heard bombs going off and was so worried about his students that he gathered the courage to run 300 meters to Almond School. When he arrived he found only a few stragglers, including the Matron and hoped very much that most of the students had run as opposed to being abducted. Later, he told the students “if you hear the LRA coming, don’t stay in the dorm, just run – as fast as you can – towards the middle of town”. We asked why there was no plan implemented for such emergencies and he said it was because there were spies everywhere. Someone may drink and dance with you and be your friend one day, then turns out to be a rebel and give up all your information to their leader. In other words, no one could be trusted.

During the same meal I mentioned to Benedict that the girls could really use a sewing machine and we discussed the idea of cross training with the nearby technical school. I suggested that the Almond girls teach the pattern and steps involved in the pads in exchange for learning how to use sewing machines. It would really speed up the process. Apparently women in the surrounding community are hearing about what the girls are doing at Almond, and they want to learn too!

Lara Bazant visits Rachele Rehabilitation Center for former child soldiers in northern Uganda

July 13
Awoke to the loudest rooster ever. It’s like he knows its Monday.

Later that evening….
Apparently Calvin was also displeased with the rooster and asked one of the guest house caretakers if they could please take it away. As a result, we had rooster for dinner.

My energy was low today in the 35 degree heat. Carried some bricks, laid some mortar, stumbled through lunch somehow. In the afternoon I led my own small group in preparation for Ambalal Kids Day and was impressed to see them come up with such a detailed plan for the refreshment stand. They worked out their own budget and everything! It was certainly an inspiration for me as a small business owner to be a little more organized with my budget and finance systems. Ivan is a particularly bright young man and others follow his democratic lead.

I was frustrated with not having enough time for the girls to complete their pads after school and Sammy (head of the girl’s dorm) offered the solution of setting them to complete the task on their own time. What a great idea! Today Francesca expressed that she cannot afford disposable pads and that I am “a blessing”. When I shared it with the group tonight at dinner I shed a tear. True happiness is giving from the heart. I had no idea the pads would turn out to be such an important thing for them. I merely did what I thought was the right thing to do.

July 14

Really learning the kids’ names now. This is important because they very much appreciate it. Pumped a lot of water and delivered it to the mortar mixers this morning. I definitely prefer pumping water over carrying bricks. In the afternoon my group went into the deeper planning stages of the refreshment stand for kid’s day. It is a little stressful for me to see how they seem to be complicating things instead of simplifying, but this is their lesson in leadership and I am not to interfere! I have to trust that they will be able to pull it off. It is their decision to buy groceries and make the snack for 300 students from scratch. I tried to suggest perhaps just purchasing biscuits instead, but they were adamant that there would not be enough nutritional value in the biscuits to keep the little kids going. Pretty smart. They also came up with our group name: “Energy Builders”.

Finished the pads workshop today and set them to task: complete their first set of pads in their own time and teach one other girl. While they are teaching another girl the skill they are to make another set for themselves – this way they will get an even better handle on the skill, and have completed two sets of pads which will be enough for one day and one night. I instructed them on how to wash the pads and lay them out to dry in the sun. We also went through the process step by step and wrote down instructions for future use. They were so proud and happy for us to take a photo together and are quite self-policing with the supplies. Tomorrow I will start with the jewellery lessons. It’s a lot to get done in a day but each day is productive and fulfilling. When I mentioned I was going to teach jewellery, the girls jumped at the chance and said “what other schools have this? It could be our only chance!” I hope to empower the women here so they don’t have to rely on their husbands for income. They need options.

Lara Bazant teaches female teens to make reusable sanitary pads in Lira Uganda

July 15
Decided to delay the jewellery workshop a day and take a little walk around town with some of the other volunteers. We ended up in a little market and the women who were selling food took a real liking to me and wanted our photo taken together.

Lira, Uganda

July 16
The “Energy Builders” were very responsive today. We came up with a group chant and the idea of us as a tribe seems to really bond them. They have definitely moved from the “storming” stage on to “norming” and “performing”. Based on their proposed budget, Calvin gave me money to pass on to teacher Emily. She then went with Ivan and Peter to purchase the groceries required to make this mysterious “Y-Y” snack which they are very excited about preparing. I say mysterious because I have no idea what it actually is (seems like cookies or doughnuts based on the ingredients). They are also planning to purchase a drum which they will fill with water that they pump from the school well and carry all the way over to Ambalal (about 1 km). I keep asking them if they are SURE they want to carry it all, but this is not a big deal for them. I guess carrying water is something they are very accustomed to. This whole thing as been a great learning experience for me in leadership and bringing people together as a team. Here at Almond, chanting and team building exercises are very effective. Not surprising – they are a tribal people.

Team building exercises at Almond School in Lira Uganda

July 17
The smell of burning wood and leaves, the hot afternoon sun, and the bright smiles of white teeth on black skin. These are the things I will remember most about Uganda. Many of the other volunteers are getting requests from the students for sponsorship. I haven’t been asked – perhaps because I am always occupied with workshops. The jewellery workshops have been going well – albeit slightly chaotic as a result of the great curiosity of onlookers and eagerness to learn. Some of the students (boys and girls alike) have made beautiful things – especially Juliet. She is so quiet and full of talent: singing, dancing, sewing, beading. I wish I could take her back to Canada and hire her! Susan is great too. How I will miss them all terribly.

Lara Bazant teaches orphaned teens how to make wire and beaded jewelry in Lira Uganda

Got up early today to supervise the making of the Y-Y snack (they still haven’t given me a concise explanation as to why it is called Y-Y). Those kids worked their butts off – from 8:00 am until past 6:00 pm with a short break for lunch. I am so proud of my team. Go Energy Builders!! They made 300 bags of the sweet and crunch snack of fried dough from scratch – starting with chopping the firewood, then mixing and rolling the dough, cutting and frying it, then making up individual bags. Ambalal Kids day will be a hit tomorrow!

Lara Bazant facilitates team leadership workshop in Lira Uganda

July 18
Today was the pinnacle of the leadership course, where everything came together: Ambalal Kids Day. I will remember this day for the rest of my life. My team was proudly shining as they played games with the kids, distributed food and water, and sent them off with a chant. At the beginning of the day when the little ones were being led toward the field, it was a sight to behold! Single file lines, clapping and singing in unison. When the activities had finished we gathered in a room with the Almond students and each had a chance to speak a few words. I told them they were all awesome and thanked them so much for accepting us into their lives. When Francesca got up she thanked Tracy and then sent a special thanks to me for teaching the girls! I couldn’t help but shed a little tear. Later, Judith and Lydia (from my Energy Builders team) said they hope and pray for God to allow me to come back next year. I hope and pray too. The construction has been hard for me, but teaching the kids feels so natural. Their eagerness to learn makes the process very rewarding for everyone involved.

Ambalal Kids Day, Lira Uganda

When I look closely at the faces all around me, I see such spectacular beauty. The people have soft features and striking eyes, and their willingness to welcome beams out of them. I didn’t want to become attached to them, but “In fact” as Peter would say, I could not help it.

July 19
To dance is to be alive. I spent the entire afternoon today dancing with the kids at school. They have religious services all morning, then in the afternoon they just dance. I don’t remember the last time I felt such pure joy. When they sing and dance, their eyes light up completely. They smile and laugh as they swing their arms and stomp their feet. I feel so grateful to have shared this experience with them. When I close my eyes, I see their faces all around me.

Sunday mass at Almond School

Lara Bazant dances with students of Almond School

There is a 7 year old boy in the village named Geoffrey that I have taken a liking to. He follows me around all the time and I give him little candies. Maybe one day when he goes to Almond School I can sponsor his education. I’d like that.

Geoffrey

July 20
This morning I spoke to Helen (the matron) about what the girls dorm needs are so that I can pass on the info to Calvin for next year. We had a good talk and I wrote everything down. Their main needs are more curtains, first aid supplies and air freshener blocks for the latrine area. I also had to educate the matron on how to use tampons, as one of our volunteers had donated some and she was unfamiliar with the product. I explained how to use them but was very clear about the risks of using them in a hot climate and how it must be changed regularly. I stressed the importance of the pads workshop I taught, and discussed with a couple of the girls about the prospect of them setting up a regular workshop on Saturdays. When I return to Canada I will email the headmaster to check if they have kept it up. 

Helen - Matron of Almond College

Lara Bazant and Headmaster Odongo Benedict

In the afternoon I went to a little fair trade craft shop in Lira and purchased some locally made beads. One of the main fair trade industries here is paper beads – similar to the ones I teach in Toronto, except larger and finished with a different type of sealant.

Lara Bazant sources locally made paper beads from artisans in Lira Uganda

In the evening, we said our goodbyes at the school. I gave a special mention to Ivan and Peter at the ceremony, and privately I gave Susan and Juliet each their own set of tools and wire to make jewellery. I really have a soft spot in my heart for Ivan. I hope he grows up to be a very successful leader. I’d like to find a way to sponsor his A-levels and have told teacher Emily I am willing to do so. Francesca was crying when we said goodbye and told me she promises to teach all of the girls how to make pads and that I have brought a great gift to them because some girls were dropping out of school because they couldn’t afford to buy them.

It is sad and happy all at once. Sad because I’ll miss them, but happy knowing an impact has been made. All of the Kirabo volunteers did fantastic work and the changes were apparent: mural painting, sponsorship letters, sports, a new library, and of course the completion of a new classroom. Much was accomplished in a short period of time.

Lara Bazant with students at Almond School

July 21
This morning we are leaving Lira. My window is open and from outside I hear the cavalcade of roosters and humble laughter of children on their way to school. I have learned a very valuable lesson here: That even in the face of the worst adversity, human beings are capable of joy, love and respect. I wish I could spend every day learning a little more about each one of them. The truest beauty I have seen is on the faces of the people of Lira.

Ivan

Peter

Evelyn and Phillips

July 22 – 24
R& R portion of the trip – Safari in Murchison Falls Park and on the Nile, then a long drive back to Kampala for our last bit of volunteering. Came down with a nasty bout of traveler’s tummy – but took the antibiotics that I brought along and am doing much better now.

Herd of elephants on the  savanna. Uganda.

July 25
Kampala Kids Day. Bit of a late start - driver Jimmy was late again and Calvin was none to pleased! Luckily when we arrived at the rec park (after Jimmy got lost amongst the pot-holed back roads) the kids had not arrived yet! We were able to organize ourselves while waiting for them and then they came bursting in – running in line and smiling with glee. The inner city kids of the Bwaise slum grabbed our arms and hugged us tight. It was like Christmas for them. Tracy and I were in charge of the craft station and we set it up by moving benches to face each other, then distributed colored paper and adhesive (tape, glue stick) to each group. They did ripped paper collages and some of them were really good! They were cooperative and shared resources. The kids were all dressed up in their Sunday best for the event – dresses, suits, whatever they could manage, and at lunchtime they completely wolfed down their meals. The playground was an exceptional treat for them, although amongst the excitement a few of the little ones got some cuts and bruises. After lunch they took a train ride around the park and went for a nature walk. Kirabo organized two of the stations and Right to Play organized the other two. Their method was learning games that involved discussion of HIV/AIDS and rape. At the end of the day we distributed pens/pencils and notebooks, and some of the kids were so desperate that they convincingly lied to get more! They were polite to us, but occasionally fought and pushed each other. It was nice to see them so proud of their artwork though. Getting them all packed onto the bus was insanity! 200 kids on a regular sized tour bus.

Lara Bazant teaches paper crafts at Kampala Kids Day

We finished off the day with a home cooked meal at Alice’s mother’s house in a Kampala neighborhood. (Alice is a Ugandan woman who works for Kirabo). As we sat and talked I watched the neighbors bustle about. They live in what we would consider to be sub standard conditions, yet they completely take care of each other. Cooking the food, kids helping out….it was serene yet sad. Sad because I can’t believe how spoiled I have become in Canada. We have everything yet complain incessantly – always wanting more. Bonnie and I were talking about how it makes us want to slow things down in our lives – take time to say hello and how are you. Welcome people into our hearts and our lives. We want to teach others the same but know they won’t understand until they see it themselves.

Residential neighborhood at Kampala Uganda

July 27
We are on the flight home. Heartbreaking. Calvin gave a nice speech thanking all 13 volunteers and gave three words to describe each of us. He described me as a passionate artist who is innovative and hardworking. Calvin also gave us back the letters we wrote to ourselves three weeks prior, just before arriving in Uganda. What I had hoped for myself all came true: a life changing experience, a difference made in the lives of others, perspective on my relationships, inspiration, happiness and balance. In addition to all of this I have made some new friends – ones I will truly cherish for what we have shared.

I will never forget those kids. If there is any way in the future that I can improve their lives, I will make it happen.

I now know how easy it is to set up community projects. As long as I can keep traveling, my goal will be to try and make a sustainable life for those in need.

Kirabo Canada Volunteers July 2009

To read about the other volunteers' experiences on the trip, visit www.kirabocanada.ca/news